Sail French Polynesia: the Tuamotu Archipelago

Sailing In the Tuamotus on Charter

The Tuamotu Archipelago is a vast collection of low-lying atolls at the heart of French Polynesia, positioned between the Society Islands to the south and the Marquesas to the north. The main gateways to the Tuamotus are Rangiroa (with a population of around 3,000) and Fakarava (1,000). These atolls offer good navigation aids into and within their lagoons, and they are the most developed onshore destinations in the region.

Fakarava and Nearby Atolls

Fakarava, at the center of this expansive archipelago, provides excellent anchorages and the option to explore several nearby smaller atolls for added variety and total seclusion. A favored anchorage is Hirifa, located about an hour’s sail from Fakarava's South Pass. Idyllic is an understatement—this serene location boasts calm waters, a beautiful beach, and a sandbar perfect for kitesurfing and wingfoiling enthusiasts. Plus, there is reliable internet access here.

On Fakarava's doorstep lies a 30-meter trench, offering a diving experience that is truly otherworldly, descending into a space teeming with marine life in crystal-clear visibility.

The neighboring atoll of Toau is best accessed via Fakarava's northern pass. Sail southeast to Toau’s pass and anchor at Teahuroa in a wild, uninhabited lagoon. The diving at Faketahuna Pass is remarkable, with vibrant coral and abundant marine fauna. As you continue towards Rangiroa, if your adventures haven't delayed you too much, you may find time to explore Apataki, visit its village, and engage with the welcoming local community.

Rangiroa and Tikehau

Rangiroa, located at the western edge of the Tuamotus and surrounded by the world’s second-largest lagoon, is the main settlement in the archipelago. Deciding whether to base your charter in Fakarava or Rangiroa may come down to a flip of a coin, as both offer fabulous dive spots and water sports locations. However, Rangiroa has the advantage of more on-land activities and attractions, such as the Mana’o Rum aging cellar and vineyards, located on a small motu off the village of Avatoru. Rangiroa also features evidence of early French missionary influence.

The Tuamotus are considered one of the best diving destinations in the world. Travel and Leisure ranked them at the top of its list in May 2024, and Rangiroa’s Tiputa Pass is among the highlights. The Tuamotus also offer an excellent environment for water sports, with plenty of wind above the calm lagoon waters, making it ideal for relaxation or active fun, depending on your mood.

For some real blue-water sailing, take the 35 nautical mile passage between Rangiroa and its nearby neighbor, Tikehau. Tikehau is known for a spot where manta rays congregate, which will be of great interest if you haven’t encountered enough already! Tikehau is a smaller atoll with a well-developed main settlement and its own airport.

Scattered throughout the main Tuamotus are several resorts where you can dine ashore in luxury, with seafood as the main attraction. One of the best options is Ninamu Resort on Tikehau, known for its excellent cocktail bar.

Makatea and Tetiaroa

South and west of the above Tuamotu atolls lies Makatea, the archipelago’s only uplifted coral island, once used for phosphate mining. A charter from Papeete—usually with a skipper—takes you to this less-visited destination, providing a different perspective of the region. Here, you can engage in land-based activities such as climbing, caving, and the nighttime sport of coconut crab hunting, as well as magnificent diving.

Makatea is an overnight sail from the main base. On the return journey, stop off at Tetiaroa, a pristine bird and turtle sanctuary. Tetiaroa is close enough to Tahiti for a midday departure to return to your home base by evening.

Getting to the Tuamotus

Tahiti is served by Faa'a International Airport in Papeete, which offers scheduled flights to Rangiroa, Tikehau, and Fakarava, including multi-island passes. Flight times from Papeete are about 75 minutes. Flight schedules allow for planning both return and one-way charter itineraries. Bareboat charters out of Tahiti or the Society Islands can also be arranged for suitably qualified skippers on request.

Although sparsely populated, there are local inhabitants who offer catering services to passing travelers, a precious resource in such remote atolls. Once again, we stress the importance of taking along local knowledge, as it is essential for unlocking the true secrets of this extraordinary place.